Everything you need to know

What  to expect when renting a class C motorhome from Island RV:

For starters, what is a Class C Motorhome?

Simply put, it is a motorhome with a truck chassis and a bunk over the driving cab. We have 2 different sizes available in our fleet: 23 feet and 28 feet. This is the measurement of the house body. The actual length is about 3 additional feet when measured from bumper to bumper.

In this tutorial, we will inform you of what to expect when renting one of our Motorhomes. We will discuss: the dimensions, road handling and fuel consumption. We will look at similarities and differences when comparing motorhomes to travel trailers. We will answer common questions about what to expect when camping in one of our motorhomes.

 Let’s look at some general dimensions:

• The Width is around 8 feet 3 inches
• The Height is around 11 feet 2 inches
• And the length will be either: 25 feet 8 inches or 30 feet 4 inches

Road Handling and Driving:

When driving one of our Class C motorhomes, you will notice several factors that make it different from driving a car or a pickup truck:

• For starters, the vehicle is taller
• It is wider
• The sideview mirrors extend a great distance, making your footprint even larger
• The weight of the vehicle is considerably heavier
• And you don’t have the ability to see outside of a rear view mirror.

How do these differences translate when driving?

• You must be aware of low lying overhead objects. Verify when approaching objects or structures, such as: branches, powerlines, bridges, parkades and of course boarding ferry boats. You must verify heights before proceeding if the height is not posted, you may have to stop and look.
• You will occupy more of the lane than you’re used to. Pay closer attention to your surroundings. You will have less room to wander before you begin to depart your lane. Be extra cautious when crossing paths with another wide vehicle. Mirror on Mirror contact occurs too often and is avoidable.
• Turns need to be approached at a wider angle. Especially 90 degree right hand turns.
• When traveling on roads, ensure there is an adequate distance between you and the vehicle in front of you. Due to the additional weight, your stopping distance will be greater.
• Utilize your sideview mirrors and your secondary mirrors to safely make lane changes and turns.
• When reversing, utilize a spotter. Please review our video on the Spotter role.

 How much gasoline will you consume on your trip?

• Typically the motorhome will consume 26 Liters of Gasoline for every 100 kilometers driven. You can approximate the fuel cost for your trip by:
  • Multiplying your estimated number of kilometers, times the rate of consumption, which is 0.26 Liters per kilometer, times the price of Gasoline per liter.
    • (Total KM) x (0.26 L/Km) x (Gas Price Per Liter) = Estimated Fuel Cost

 Comparing a Class C Motorhome to a Travel  Trailer:

 Similarities:

Much like a travel trailer, the Class C motorhome comes equipped with many amenities to make your trip comfortable. You will have access to:

• Stove top burners
• A Hot Water Tank
• A Fridge
• A Microwave
• A toilet
• A shower
• Sinks
• A Furnace
• And an Air Conditioner

Differences:

There are some subtle differences when camping in a Class C motorhome versus a Travel Trailer. You will find:

• The Motorhome is driveable, so if you’re dry-camping, you can travel to empty your waste holding tanks and replenish your freshwater holding tank
• The propane tank is built in and requires a gas attendant to refill it at a pump station. Only certain gas stations have this ability
• There usually isn’t an oven, only stove top burners
• The Fresh water tank is a bit smaller at 150 liters compared to 200 liters
• The Grey tank is considerably smaller and holds about 90 Liters
• The Grey tank is susceptible to overfilling because it is smaller than the freshwater tank
• The units with built-in generators will provide many benefits for dry-camping

Common questions about what to expect:

 When traveling how does my fridge work?

• You will need to turn off your propane when driving. Your fridge will not operate, so you will need to consider your perishables. The fridge will act like a cooler, so you are likely safe to travel for a few hours before it is an issue. You can consider adding a bag or block of ice to the fridge and freezer to maintain coldness.

Another option is to run the built-in generator with the trailer plugged into it. Not every motorhome comes with a built-in generator, and while it is convenient, it does use a lot more fuel.

What other benefits does the generator provide?

• If you are dry-camping, you can run the generator to utilize the microwave and the AC unit.
• While it’s running, you will also have access to the power outlets, which will allow you to use electronics. The running generator will also charge your 12V house battery.

How many people fit in the Motorhomes?

• The 23 foot unit can sleep 5 and is equipped with 6 seatbelts.
• The 28 foot unit can sleep 7 and is equipped with 9 seat belts.
• In both units the dinette seating area has mounted brackets to secure a child seat. It is important to note, we do not provide infant or toddler seat carriers. You will need to make your own arrangements for these items if they are required

What are the Sleeping arrangements?

• Both motorhome lengths have a large queen bed over top of the driving cab. This bed is wide and spacious, but it does lack headroom and some climbing is required. Both motorhome lengths also have dinettes that can be converted into single beds.
• The 23 foot motorhome comes equipped with a double bed on the ground level.
• The 28 foot motorhome has a walk around queen bed on the ground level and a futon style couch that folds into a double bed.

Where to stay?

• We recommend that you plan and book your camping locations ahead of time, especially in summer. If you want a list of our recommendations, please email us at: info@islandrv.ca
• If you choose not to stay at a campground, consider these suggestions:
  • Choose a safe location
  • Make sure you have permission
  • Choose a level surface. If you are on a hill, the fridge will not function

This tutorial contains many references to Class C motorhomes in our fleet. The numbers and values are meant to be used as an approximation. Please verify when it is important. We look forward to meeting you on your next Vancouver Island adventure!

Happy Camping.

Brought to you by the proud campers from Island RV and RVME.

The role of the spotter: The communication between the driver and the spotter can greatly affect the outcome. In this tutorial we will show you our way of communicating and signaling. We will discuss some does and don’ts and have you feeling confident in your approach. Our goals are to be safe, get the job done, and keep the stress level at a minimum.

Prior to initiating the approach, these key points need to be established:

●        Make sure the driver and the spotter know what the plan is

●        You will need to determine  the best position for the spotter to maintain a line of sight with the driver

●        Establish your signals and what they mean

●        Stay calm

Let’s dive in a bit deeper: Start by making sure the windows are rolled down. Remember, the driver needs to pay attention to the path of the truck as well as the path of the trailer. When it comes to maintaining a line of sight you may need to adjust your position as the trailer moves. If switching sides, make sure to clearly communicate with the driver. The safest practice is to stop the vehicle and walk around the front. The wrong thing to do is run behind a moving vehicle. If you cannot see the driver directly or in a mirror then the driver cannot see you.

Establishing an understanding of the hand signals is key. We suggest the spotter uses signals to direct the rear end of the trailer. There will be 4 directions:

●        Straight back

●        Left

●        Right and

●        Stop

The spotter should use arm signals that clearly and calmly indicate the path. The most important signal is STOP, so let’s start here. With both arms, form an X across your body with the palms of your hands facing your shoulders. Stand clearly in the line of sight of the driver. For each command, it may take the driver 1-2 seconds to execute the request, so plan accordingly and present yourself with calmness and visibility.

For a straight back path, have both arms out front with bent elbows forming a 90-degree angle up, then move both arms in a forward direction until they are near parallel with the ground. Repeat this motion from 90 degrees to parallel calmly and continuously until a direction change is required.

For right and left guidance, the spotter will do so by pointing one arm calmly and repeatedly towards the desired direction. Use the closest arm, shape your hand flat like a paddle to make it visible and hinge at the elbow in a repeated fashion use the 90 degree to parallel path to complete this motion. Keep the other arm upright at 90 degrees with the palm facing yourself. This in combination tells the driver to reverse the trailer backwards into the direction you are pointing. For example, if the spotter wants the rear of the trailer to travel to the right, the spotter will use their right arm, to repeatedly motion and point towards the right. while keeping the left arm held at a 90 degrees. The opposite occurs if directing the rear of the RV towards the left, use the left arm and hand to repeatedly motion to the left, and hold the right arm at 90 degrees.

Backing up a trailer can be stressful for the driver and the spotter. Stress will be greatly decreased if a communication plan is established and executed.  Maintaining calmness is absolutely key. As a general rule, do not yell, scream or jump. Unfortunately this occurs far too often and creates a bad experience for everyone involved. Trust in the established communication system and utilize the arm and hand signals.

Let’s recap and summarize this information:

●        The driver and spotter are both responsible for maintaining a line of site

●        Make sure to stop the vehicle if the line of sight is lost

●         Utilize the arm and hand signals

●        Frequently assess the path of the tow vehicle’s front end

●        Don’t Yell, Scream or Jump

●        Stay calm

Towing a travel trailer:

In this tutorial, we will talk about towing a travel trailer. As  a side note, you may want to stop and watch our video on the “Spotter” role ahead of time.

When planning a trip. The driver will need to consider the towing capacity of his or her vehicle along with the payload. The tow vehicle will need to be equipped with a brake controller and its own hitch. The hitch needs to be adequately rated  for the weight of the travel trailer and it will need the appropriate ball size. The driver will need to know the Gross Vehicle Weight Restriction (GVWR) of the travel trailer. The driver will need to be familiar with the mechanics of hooking up a trailer to a tow vehicle and lastly the driver will need to be familiar with towing. Let’s expand upon these topics:

●        Gross Vehicle Weight Restriction (GVWR) 

●        The Tow Vehicle: Towing Capacity,Payload and The Brake Controller

●        Hitch and Ball

●        Connecting the tow vehicle to the trailer

●        Traveling with the trailer in tow

The Gross Vehicle Weight Restriction (GVWR) refers to a trailer’s maximum permitted weight. This weight is a cumulative amount of the dry weight of the trailer plus added materials and fluids. The number refers to the maximum combined weight the trailer is permitted to carry. If towing one of our travel-trailers the tow vehicle must be rated to carry the GVWR amount. We do not overstock our trailers so we are confident the weight will be below the GVWR.

Every tow vehicle will come with a tow capacity rating and a payload rating. These numbers can be found in your Vehicle Owner’s Manual. It is paramount that you verify these ratings to ensure the safety of you, your passengers and the other people on the road. Your Towing Capacity is the amount of weight your vehicle is permitted to tow or drag behind. Your Payload amount refers to the downward force your vehicle experiences. Approximately 10% of the trailer weight will contribute to your payload. You will also need to factor in the weight of the passengers and the equipment carried in the tow vehicle. The Brake Controller is an electrical component that activates the brakes on the trailer. It enables the driver to reduce speed by applying brakes to the tow vehicle and the travel trailer at the same time, this will allow for shorter stopping times and less wear on the tow vehicle’s brakes. Modifying the gain will affect the braking sensitivity. The brake controller is typically located on the dash below or to the side of the steering wheel. Be sure to establish the sensitivity of your controller at slow safe speeds when starting your trip. Deepening on the speed of the tow vehicle, the gain may need to be adjusted periodically.  It is important to reference the manual and familiarize yourself with the proper operating procedure ahead of time.

Your towing arrangement would not be complete without your hitch and ball. It is equally important to make sure your hitch has an appropriate weight rating, as it is to make sure the tow vehicle has an appropriate tow rating.. The typical travel trailer hitch ball sizes are 2 inches and 2-5/16 inches. Make sure you know what size ball to bring. This will be conveyed to you after you have booked your travel trailer for self-tow. We use and we recommend you use an equalizer hitch along with equalizer bars. This will create a much stronger and a much  safer connection, while also distributing the weight more evenly to the front tires. Please familiarize yourself ahead of time for proper equalizer hitch application and use and Inspect your equipment ahead of time.

While using effective spotter techniques, we will slowly guide our tow-vehicle in a straight line with the trailer until the ball is approximately 1 foot from the tongue of the trailer hitch. We will signal for the driver to stop and adjust the height of the tongue, so the coupler sits a few inches higher than the height of the ball. We want to be able to bring the ball underneath the coupler without contacting it. The spotter will continue to guide the driver slowly and safely backwards until the ball is just forward from center or exactly centered in line with the coupler. Stop the tow  vehicle and put the vehicle in park. Use the tongue jack to lower the coupler so it sits onto the ball. Engage the latch and fasten it with a locking pin or coupler lock once the coupler is completely placed on the ball, assess the underside and make sure it is seated properly. You should see the coupling mechanism curving around the underside of the ball. Now the chains can be attached. We suggest crisscrossing the chains as you attach them to the tow vehicle. Next, plug in your 4 pin or 7 pin power cable and lastly attach your emergency breakaway cable to the tow vehicle. Once this is complete you will attach the equalizer bars. Please refer to our other tutorial for more information on equalizer bar application.

Re-check everything you have done:

●        The latch is seated properly and pinned

●        The chains are connected and not dragging

●        The power cable  is connected and operational

●        The emergency brake cable is connected to the hitch and the tow vehicle

●        The equalizer bars are safely in place

Before you begin to drive after attaching a trailer, you must perform a walk around of the trailer to make sure nothing has been forgotten. It is easy to get sidetracked and miss something. This step is very important.

Let’s specifically verify::

●        Trailer lights are working, including: running, brakes, turn signals and clearance. 

●        All external connections are unplugged and packed: Power, Sewer and Water.

●        Inspect all doors and latches.

●        Make sure all roof vents and extendable antennas are in the down position

●        Steps are in the upright position

●        Inspect the tires for pressure, wear, cracks,  bulges and minimum tread depth

●        For good measure triple check your hitch setup

Once we are all ready to go, the last thing to do is remove the chocks from the wheels and pack them. They will be needed at the next stop. Roll down your windows before you start to drive and listen for any ominous sounds. Travel a short distance before coming to a stop. Recheck your vehicle/trailer connection one last time. If all looks well, you’re off to your destination.

Towing a trailer forward is rather simple, not much different than driving any vehicle forward. Turning, reversing, and stopping, on the other hand, requires a different approach than driving without a trailer in tow. 

When Turning you must consider the tow vehicle’s path and the trailer’s path. The wheels will not follow directly.  They will in fact take a shorter route, thus making it extremely important to anticipate your approach. If taking a right 90-degree corner the tow vehicle will need to take a wider approach to the corner to bring the wheels around and avoid departing from safe ground. Take wide sweeping turns if you want to stay in a precise lane, of course this isn’t important if you are in an open field, but if you’re turning onto a perpendicular street or if you are  turning into a parking lot, you will need to make these adjustments. Left turns are generally a bit easier. They are wider and sweeping to begin with.

Reversing a trailer and situating it into a campsite can be tricky and is likely going to be the most challenging part of the tow. It is best to survey and assess the area prior to starting your approach. Get out of the vehicle to do this. Come up with a plan. You will need to consider the path of the trailer along with the path of the tow vehicle. When reversing, if you turn the steering wheel to the right (clockwise), you can expect: the back of the trailer to travel towards the left and the front of the trailer to go to the right. Of course, the opposite occurs if you turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction. Turning to the left (counter clockwise), while reversing, you will move the rear of the trailer right and the front of the trailer left.

The driver must frequently assess the path of the tow vehicle’s front end. Mistakes are often made when the driver pays all of his or her attention to the rear. If the spotter wants to provide feedback about the position of the truck, the process should be stopped and discussed verbally.

These instructions assume the driver and the spotter have established a communication plan with calmness and well identified arm and hand signals. Please review our video on the Spotter role for an expanded explanation.

When you arrive at your destination, you may need to level the trailer from side to side with wood blocking prior to detaching the trailer and further setting up. Leveling and setting up your trailer is a multi step process that we will break down in a different tutorial.

Happy Towing 🙂

Troubleshooting Power Loss: Restoring Power to Your Plug-Ins While Camping

Welcome to today’s video on troubleshooting power loss to your plug-ins while camping at a site with a power connection. If you’re camping without a power connection, these tips won’t apply to you. But if you’re at a site with a power hookup and you suddenly lose the ability to use your plug-ins, don’t worry. We’ve got you covered.

One of the common causes of power loss to plug-ins is overload or water exposure. For example, running a hair dryer and a space heater simultaneously can lead to an overload issue. But remember, there are various other scenarios that can cause power loss.

Your safety is our priority when troubleshooting electrical issues. If you’re unsure or uncomfortable with any step, it’s always best to seek assistance from a professional.

Now, let’s go through the steps to restore power to your plug-ins:

Step 1: Unplug any items or appliances that may have contributed to the overload.

Make sure you disconnect any devices that could have caused the power loss. This will help prevent further issues and ensure your safety.

Step 2: Assess all GFI switches on the plug-ins.

Look for GFI switches on your plug-in outlets, usually found near bathroom or kitchen sinks, and possibly on the outside plug. These switches may have tripped due to water exposure or overload. If you find a tripped switch, press the reset button.

Step 3: Check the campground’s power source.

Is the RV power cable firmly seated into the terminal? If available, inspect the circuit breaker for your campsite. Locate the panel box near your RV site and look for any tripped breakers. If you find one, turn it all the way off before flipping it back to the “on” position. If there’s no breaker panel to inspect, try plugging in a cell phone charger to see if the power is working. If not, contact someone who works on-site for assistance.

Step 4: Verify the RV’s main breaker panel.

Inside your RV, usually near the floor, you’ll find the main breaker panel. It’s a flat and smooth panel that opens after pressing it. Check if any breakers have tripped and reset them by turning them off and then back on. Remember, turn the breaker all the way off, even if it looks like it’s in the “off” position to begin with.

Step 5: Assess the battery terminal connections.

If you still haven’t resolved the issue, check the battery terminal connections to ensure they haven’t come loose from the electrode. Locate the batteries, which are typically located on the front hitch under a plastic lid.

After completing these steps, you should have identified the cause of power loss, made any necessary corrections, and hopefully restored power to your plug-ins. However, if you’ve followed these steps and are still without power, it’s time to call for help and have a more experienced person assess the issue.

We hope these troubleshooting tips have been helpful to you. Remember to always prioritize your safety when dealing with electrical issues. Thanks for watching, and happy camping!